Introduction:
First, let's go over some of the basics of car care. The interior and exterior of your vehicle is constantly under attach from dirt, grime, and corrosion all while the surface is being weakened by the sun's heat and UV rays. Protectants and waxes are our only line of defense against these ailments, and should be your number one friend. Keeping your interior, exterior, engine, and under body components covered in protectant at all times is key to keeping that vehicle looking new. It's not really the protectants that is the main source of new appeal, technically it's your ownership ethics first and foremost. The car below totally lacked ethics, elbow grease, and everything between!
Ownership ethics play even a larger role in the destruction of a vehicle's appearance. Simple things like missing key holes, dragging your feet when you get in or out of the car, not sitting properly in the seats, and other human inadequacies are common causes of interior and exterior demise. Letting food and drink stains set instead of cleaning them up immediately along with careless smokers and owners leaving windows open are other top causes. It's not just about cleaning up the mess, it's about preventing it ahead of time.
Below is a collection of well written pieces about common vehicle care. It's not a step-by-step "hold my hand" wash me through. No, this is detailed information on how to cure and care various ailments found during the maintenance of a vehicle. Stains, spotting, waxing, and more; it's all below! If you have any questions about a particular encounter while washing or maintaining the appearance of your vehicle, post a comment below and I'll address it A.S.A.P.
Car washing mentalityDevotion to the skill is required to truly appreciate and become an adequate car owner. Constant care and attention to every detail must be taken to keep your vehicle in tip top shape. True vehicle care is so vast that an attempt to capture it is only for the avid. Testing different methods, chemicals, waxes, and more all over long periods of time is the road to car washing righteousness. If you take pride in your own vehicle, setting out devotion time is a must. It's not just cleaning a car, those that do it correctly make it their life. To get a car properly washed it is as time consuming as expensive, but in the end very rewarding.
Common tools and chemicals used:
- Shop-vac, wet and dry vacuum cleaner
- Wax friendly car soap
- Varied wax types (paste, liquid, and between wash wax sprays)
- Chrome and aluminum polishes
- Paint polish and clay bars for prepping
- Electric buffer (high or low speed depending on your skill level, both for pro's)
- Soap buckets
- Chamois cloths
- Detail brushes of varied sizing for interior
- Wheel, fender, and under body brushes (larger, longer, etc for ergonomics)
- Mineral spirit or rubbing alcohol
- Plastic razors
- Pressure sprayer (gas or electric, doesn't matter)
- Steam cleaning system (features vacuum to remove while steaming)
- Varied protectant chemicals (tire, interior, engine bay plastics and rubbers, etc.)
- Fabric cleaner and condition
- Various chemical application mediums (rags, pads, sponges, etc.)
- Wheel cleaning chemicals (aluminum, painted, and chrome types)
- Windex or other glass cleaning agents (vinegar and water works too!)
- Good work ethic (hard to find)
The right way to wash a car
Using the tools and chemicals above, there is no reason why you can't detail a car just like everyone else. Detailing a vehicle isn't about just washing it and getting it done and over. No, detailing is about taking your time and finding every speck of dirt. Cracks, crevasses, edges around plastic, and other nooks and crannies all need to be cleaned. It's about precision, not quantity. Like I said before, I'm not going to give you a step by step instruction on how to wash a car, that's simple and everyone should know. Rinse, wash, rinse, dry, wax, repeat; that's just too easy. So let's start of with the pre-wash.
Pre-wash
Pre-washing the vehicle before the actual physical contact washing is very important. This removes the larger aggregate and debris from your paint surface, thus reducing the likelihood of a scratch appearing. This is probably the most important part of the wash, because this will directly affect the luster at or around 100,000 miles of use. Spray the car down with pressurized water, focusing on the common dirt areas around the wheels.
Wheel cleaners
After you've sprayed down the vehicle and it's completely wet, this is a good time to apply wheel cleaners. Only apply a wheel cleaner to the wheel type it's specified for otherwise you may have results that are less than satisfactory. Harsh chemicals used to clean brake dust, tar, and other road grime off of your rims can actually destroy the clear coat and finish of some wheels. If it says "chrome", use it on chrome wheels. This is pretty simple but amazingly even the most savvy washers fail and screw up their rims. Do not spray on a wheel that is piping hot either, as the chemicals can be altered with heat and cause further damage.
Assuming you've taken the proper precautions and have sprayed your wheel with the correct chemical at the right temperature, there is one more key piece of advice you must use. The chemicals used to clean the wheels must be removed within thirty seconds or so of sitting on the wheel. Should they sit much longer, IE 5,10, 45 minutes later they will damage the wheel. Wheels should be rinsed before moving on to the next phase, applying soap.
Applying soap
Soap application sounds simple, but in reality it's much more difficult and precise than most people think. The soap is the lubrication between the dirt and the soft surfaces of your vehicle. Just like if your motor runs out of oil, damage will occur to your surfaces when soap runs out. Choosing the right soap and applicator is key to keeping the luster of your vehicle shining for years to come. The best applicator is a natural sponge, plucked right from the ocean. They are extremely soft, durable, and have the ability to soak up much more liquid than synthetic sponges. Synthetic is okay too, but use a natural sponge if possible.
Just like the qualities of your engine oil directly affects your engine, the quality of the soap chosen directly affects your luster. A good soap will be wax friendly, provide adequate lubrication, and leave a good smell. Higher quality soap is more expensive, but in the end it's worth it. Also depending on the water source you are using (IE softened, city, well water, etc) the soap's qualities will change. There isn't one definitive "best soap" out there, it all depends on qualities of the water you intend to mix with the soap. Softened city water is the best because it contains the least amount of contaminants such as lime, iron, and calcium. Rural water wells that have no softener inline will be the worst, as these fluids contain ridiculous amounts of aggregate. That flavor of well water is actually particles of metal like iron, elements such as calcium, and chemically reactive elements such as lime.
Test your subjected soap with your local water source by running a test wash on a soft piece of clear plastic. Cover the plastic in your local dirt carefully, taking extra precaution to not scratch the surface. Rinse it, soap it, rinse it again. Now inspect the surface. Do this with the top three soaps of your choice and compare the results. When you find the one with the least amount of surface scratches, you have found the correct soap for your water.
The actual application of soap is much easier than locating and selecting a proper soap mixture. The important part that I've noticed about the application of soap is the amount required for use. I like to use twice as much as the directions state. This gives me the extra lubrication needed to make sure that there will be no scratching due to inadequate soap to water ratios which allow aggregate to dull shiny surfaces. Once you've soaped your bucket, take the sponge and let it soak up all the soap it can get. Apply the soap in a clockwise motion, using a very soft pressure. Let the soap do the work for you! Pushing too hard will force the aggregate into the surfaces causing them to become dull. Correct soaping is a timely process if you want the outcome to be scratch free.
A lot of people like to soap the entire car, and then move on to rinse. This is fine if you can get all the soap applied before any of it starts to dry. Chances are that you won't be able to do it, and some soap will begin to dry on the surface before being rinsed away. Allowing the soap to bond to the surface is bad because it makes it very difficult to remove all of the soap. The surface of your vehicle if inspected under an electronic microscope is very ridged, and looks like a mountain range. Dried soap gets into the microscopic valleys to never be removed again. It is of utmost importance to properly rinse the soap as you apply, not after you apply. I like to stick with the three square foot rule. After washing three square feet, rinse. Working from the top of the vehicle down, rinsing and washing, make your way around the vehicle. If you are washing in the sun or hot temperatures (avoid if at all possible), keep a cool rinse applied to keep the vehicle wet until you are done with soap application. When you have completed this step, you should have a washed and rinsed vehicle ready for drying.
Drying the vehicle
The second most likely time you are going to scratch and dull your vehicle's infinite shine is during the drying process. Most people skip this step or fail to use proper materials causing damage to the surfaces. By not removing the water and allowing the air or sun dry, water stains are left behind. These leave crystals of aggregate in the valleys and crevasses of your surfaces, which when exposed to the sun can magnify it's deterioration properties resulting in damaged appearance. The worse part is, after these damaging crystals have formed and burnt your surface from the sun's energy, removal of them again damages the surface. Those car washers who do actually dry their vehicle, but use improper drying mediums such as bathroom towels, paper towels, etc. also damage the surface luster as these materials can be harsh to the surface and cause micro swirling. This swirling can be seen after time, and eventually the entire luster of the vehicle will be come dull. The third type of negative influence to drying a vehicle is the environment that the drying is performed. Should it be a dusty environment, you are getting harsh particles between your drying medium and surface which basically acts like sand paper. You think you're drying, but your actually sanding.
To properly dry a vehicle without damage, it must be correctly procured. A properly prepared vehicle drying that is serviced with proper drying materials in a clean environment is ideal. I prefer to use microfiber chamois cloth, as this has adequate water holding and material hardness attributes. Starting out with a wet chamois, this drying method works faster and is actually safer. Water's innate ability to attract to itself combined with the lubrication qualities of water, allows the chamois drying system to adequately remove water from your vehicle without harming the surface. The water trapped between the cloth and the surface of your vehicle acts like a lubricant as it's transferred into the storage cells of the chamois. Just like the soap is a lubricant for safety, the drying medium is as well.
Starting from the top and working your way down, there should be two chamois used. One for the cleaner areas of the car, and the other for the more commonly soiled parts such as fenders, skirts, bumpers, etc. Keeping these two rags separate from each other helps control the spread of damaging aggregate over the surface of your vehicle. Once the car is properly dried, we can start the various protection processes.
Protecting the vehicle
There is two ways to protect a vehicle from natural deterioration over time. One is physical, and the other is chemical. Physical protection includes garaging, car covers, car ports, etc. Chemical protection comes in form of wax and oil based protection. Wax protection is the classic way to protect your paint, while oil based protection is best used on rubber, plastic, and leathers. A great way to completely protect your vehicle is to apply various layers of both chemical and physical deterioration defense.
Physical protection
The most obvious way is to keep it in a garage. Garage kept vehicles stay like new longer because they are only exposed to the elements of our environment for a fraction of the day. At the opposite side of the spectrum, vehicles that sit outside all the time without any protection are guaranteed to deteriorate at a much quicker rate. Then, there's the third group who uses accessories like car covers and car ports despite their lack of a garage.
If you are going to use a car port, make sure it's sturdy otherwise full coverage insurance might be handy. If you want to use a car cover, make sure you keep a good layer of wax between the paint and your car cover. If and when dirt gets between your cover and paint surface, you'll be happy you kept a nice layer of wax abroad to help defend against swirl marks and dull paint.
Chemical protection
Chemical protection is one of the best ways to ensure a long lasting luster and finish for various parts on your vehicle. In the following supporting entries you'll find various areas of the vehicle and the chemical protection processes required for each area.
Underbody: This is the most needing of attention, but yet 99% of owners fail to take care of the underside of the vehicle. The underbody is a great place to use chemical protection for various areas common to rust. Keeping a thin layer of grease or oil is a great way to protect the metal and extend it's life. Spraying Armor All Original Protectant on areas of the underbody that aren't exposed to high heat can be used to defend against aging. Spray it on your bushings, rubber, plastic, and hoses; basically everywhere that isn't exposed to exhaust heat. After applying, let the protectant soak for 5 minutes and then wipe as much as you can clean with a rag. Take your time, do this once a month or so just to keep things fresh.
Front (headlights, bumper, grill):
The front of the vehicle is going to experience the most amount of damage, debris, and fading from the ailments of daily driving. Rocks, pebbles, and other hard aggregate act as sand paper during your daily commute, slowly grinding away your polished luster and deep finish. The only way to prevent this from occurring is to use protectant chemicals and applications. Chemicals such as wax, polish, and other shield forming products are ideal for minimal protection; just enough to get by. For those of us who want the top protection, we often seek products suck as LeBra, 3M's Clear, and other solid protection devices. These devices do a great job at protecting what's under them, so good there will be a noticeable difference between protected areas vs. those who are unprotected. It's so noticeable, it can actually create two different shades of color on a vehicle, ruining the protection and requiring use of the device permanently. This is not ideal.
The only way we can truly protect our front from the rigors of daily driving is to keep a good layer of wax, be conscious about driving conditions, and clean as often as possible. Don't follow open wheel vehicles closely, that's just asking for chips. Allowing insects and bird defecation artifacts on the paint will cause damage too as the acid and base of various feces eats the clear-coat. Ever wonder why your neighbor is always cleaning his car, even though it already looks clean? That's because to keep it looking new, an owner must have a routine of cleaning which regularly services the vehicles. A good rule of thumb for the front end is to check it every 200 miles for any impurities that may cause damage, fading, chipping, etc.
Exterior painted surfaces
These surfaces are pretty straight forward and probably the easiest to protect. Using a good paste wax, apply a regular waxing every oil change. This will make sure your paint is protected against the likes of sun fade, chipping, swirling, scratching, and water stains. The worst is water staining! When water forms on the surface of your paint, it creates a little magnifying glass and allows the sun to burn your paint surface like a kid to ants. You can't see it, but it's there and over time it does add up. Every 6 months, use a good liquid clay bar and strip off all the wax. Then, polish the painted surface. This will effectively scrub your clear-coat and keep your luster like new. After a clay bar and polish service, be sure to apply two or three coats of wax to build back up your protection. It takes a lot of time, but it's totally worth it as your paint will appear new in luster and color for many years.
Exterior plastic and rubber surfaces
The plastic and rubber surfaces and components on the outside of your vehicle are very susceptible to sun fade and should be properly protected with chemical protectant such as Armor-all at all times. The more you can keep adequate protection, the longer these materials will retain their original shading and resilience. If your plastics have faded, it might not be too late. For example, some plastic bumpers if gray or black can be brought back to life by a "back to black" weekly regimen. Eventually the oils from the protectants restore the plastic back to original condition. Plastic is a polymer, so remember that oil found inside can dry out but just as well be replaced over time.
Tires and fender liners should be treated differently than that of side mirrors, trim and bumpers. These areas are exposed to the most harsh and wild elements your vehicle will encounter. Rocks flying and centrifugally spun tire speeds, sand, snow, and everything else you can imagine. It's nasty in there! The best way to keep the fender liner looking new is to scrub it down, and then apply a very generous amount of Armor-all protectant. Allowing the chemical to sit (do not wipe), will restore the inner fender to a newer looking condition and help hide scratches, dirt, debris, etc. Every couple of months depending on driving environment, they need to be scrubbed out and the surface should be free of dirt, debris, etc. If all else fails, fender liner can be replaced relatively cheap.
Treating the tires with protectant is an art. Add too much protectant, and they will fling grease up all over your freshly painted surface once you hit a decent driving speed. Add too little, and the rubber will be spotty and look like crap. Choosing the right kind of tire protectant is key. The only tire protectant I've seen that doesn't fling and provides adequate coverage is Maguires tire gel. Two coats of this stuff with a tire applicator sponge, and your tires will look as shiny as your chrome rims. The trick is to apply the gel in the sun, and let the heat from the sun bake the protectant gel on to the tires. Let it set for 20 minutes, apply a second coat, wait 20 more minutes, you're ready to go!
Interior plastic surfaces
If your interior plastic surfaces appear just slightly dirty, usually a stiff rub with some protectant on a microfiber cloth will remove the grime. Sometimes it takes a liberal application of chemicals, but it comes off. If that won't work, try soap and water with a rag. I always use protectant first because soap and water dries out the plastic, while protectant does not; immediately. If you apply protectant once and then never do it again, you're screwed. The idea is to keep a steady cycle of protectant application to the point the plastic surfaces just have a nice greasy slime. It's gross, but it will make the plastic last much longer than without.
Choosing the right protectant for your interior surface is key. On some cars with higher mileage, sun exposure, or just cheap interior paint; using protectant will smear painted symbols, text, and other navigational aids. Armor All is a good choice for most vehicles, as it's not harsh enough to destroy but penetrates enough to last long enough to make application worth our time. Gels are terrible and should be avoided at all costs because these will just gunk up once rubbed. The gel forms a silicone like barrier and is very sticky, but when touched or rubbed it pills on to your finger and into the cracks and crevasse of your interior. Overall, a good application of a brand name liquid protectant to any interior plastic surface is a good idea to do every two to four weeks.
Interior wood surfaces
There are two types of wood surfaces inside of vehicles that matter. One is fake wood and composed of plastic, while the other is the real thing composed of once live wood. Plastic wood can be treated just like plastic interior noted above. If you are lucky enough to have real wood, it's ideal to care for it just like any other sealed wood surface. A constant application of kitchen grade wood cleaner and wax is ideal. It will provide for a great lemon smell and give your wood surface the protecting cleaning it deserves. If your wood is heavily scratched in the clear coat, try using a constant application of wood cleaner and wax. If they are small enough, after time they will go away if applied and removed with a microfiber cloth. If the scratches are deep enough, a complete strip and re-seal may be needed or simply a high grit water sand and buff. Either way, it's the glossy shine that protects wood from moisture, sun, and other ailments that causes cracking, mold, and decomposition.
Cleaning the engine
External cleaning
The last component we haven't covered yet is cleaning of the engine. The most important rule of cleaning an engine is to never clean it while hot. The drastic change in heat can crack your block and destroy your motor quicker than you expect. This is a delicate process that requires just as much preparation as the exterior and interior, if not more. This is the most important rule of cleaning your motor, but it's not the only rule that must be followed. Cleaning an engine is a very delicate process that requires utmost care, attention, and the proper procedure. If you have any doubts, don't do it!
Gasket materials inside of the motor may be susceptible to moisture, chemicals, and any physical cleaning force such as a brush or compressed air. Taking special care around gaskets is key to cleaning an engine safely. Degreasers should only be used when spot cleaning, never soaked on the engine as a whole. Take a bit of degreaser and spray it on a rag, then wipe the motor. Repeat until the component comes clean, even though it can take a really long time.
After you've degreased, you need to rinse that harsh chemical off your engine and/or components. Using a low pressure rinse, never a power sprayer or akin, gently run water over the degreased components and engine. Take extreme care when dealing with electronic components like the MAF sensor, ignition system, and various sensors found throughout the block. Keep water away from electrical fans too! Even though it's okay in the rain, it might not be alright when completely submerged during a rinse.
Internal cleaning
The best way to keep the inside of your engine clean is to maintain proper filtration and lubrication. Using high quality air filters and making sure all intake piping and gaskets are holding integrity is key to keeping healthy and clean internals. If your internals happen to get dirty, don't worry there is a way to clean it. Aside from taking apart the entire motor and using a brush with degreaser, SeaFoam is a great chemical cleaner that can be used. I don't suggest doing this unless totally necessary though, as O2 sensors and other various gaskets, electrical components, and rubber membranes are known for deteriorating under SeaFoam treatment. If you can't take the engine apart, SeaFoam is your only choice. The best way to clean the inside of your engine is proper maintenance and vehicle care ethic! A fresh oil change and filter schedule goes a long way.
Cleaning the interior
Carpet
The carpet of a vehicle is typically the most saturated with dirt as this is where our feet belong. Sure some people put their feet on the dash, but these people aren't real car enthusiasts. No true car lover would ever dare put feet whether shoed or bare on a dash; it's just sacrilegious and disgusting. Assuming your feet are on the carpet like they should be, they will deposit tons of nasty stuff that must be cleaned. The best way to keep your carpet looking fresh is to again have an appropriate ownership ethic. Avoid stepping in tar, gum, and oil while walking to and from your vehicle. Sometimes there is accidents, and that's where the steam cleaner comes into play.
Using steam instead of chemicals is the best way to remove dirt and stains from a vehicles carpet. Chances are that your carpet is a darker color, as manufacturers use the darker spectrum to help maintain a cleaner appearance for a much longer time. Using chemical cleaners will slowly remove the dye used in the fabric, resulting in a much worse condition than just stains; fading. A proper steam cleaner will have a chemical component to it, but not harsh enough to remove the color. Don't freak out if you use the steamer and your carpet appears lighter in color; that's just the dirt getting sucked out.
Leather
Leather is one of the most self sufficient yet demanding materials in the vehicle. Leather can take care of itself because it's resilient to adversity, but it is also demanding because if you intend on keeping it soft you'll need a lot of chemicals, care, and maintenance. Using a high brand leather cleaner system which includes a cleaning and condition agent is key to long lasting leather. At all costs, avoid using chemicals like Armor-all and other all surface chemicals. They may say all surface, but chances are high that over time they will ruin your leather. It might not be apparent at first, but trust me it's happening. Using high quality chemicals and conditioners that are intended for leather is the only way to go concerning the care and maintenance of leather interior.
Knowing when to apply the cleaner and conditioner is key. Too much or too little, and you're bound to damage the material. Keeping the leather with the appropriate luster is a fine balance of cleaner and conditioner over a period of time. Take your fingers and run them over the leather. You should be able to feel the texture and moisture of the material. If it's unusually bumpy and rough all over with some discoloration, you need to clean and treat the leather with conditioner and a tested chemical cleaner. Take a bit of your cleaner and try it on an inconspicuous location such as the underside or side of a seat that faces the console. Apply, let it dry, cure, and then observe. If the leather doesn't appear to be harmed and no dye is visible on your cleaning cloth after an hour, you're okay to use it on the rest of the seat.
Never spray the cleaner directly on the seat as the molecules will never distribute evenly. The impact and spray pattern can create dots on the leather, even long after the chemical has dried. Spray the cleaner on your cloth, pointed away from the leather making sure no over spray lands on the material. Apply with an even yet sturdy force, strong enough to remove dirt and debris but yet soft enough that it won't force the cleaner deep into the leather. Allow to dry, and then proceed to conditioning. Apply the conditioner in the same manner, as the spray can damage the leather just like the cleaner. Repeat, and your leather should have a like new feeling and the protection it deserves. A well treated and conditioned leather material will prevent rips, cracking, and tears up to ten times better than a leather that has been left alone. Ever seen an old leather jacket? We don't want that happening to our seats, now do we?
Cloth
Cloth is dastardly material that is as unforgiving as a wife catching a cheating husband. It stains, rips, tears, stretches, discolors, holds odors, and basically is the bastard son of Hannibal Lecter. If you can avoid cloth interior, do it! I've never seen such a nasty material in my life than modern cloth upholstery. Once cloth has been tainted, chances are it will never come clean. There are ways to improve the stain, but if the stain is deep and strong enough, it's sure to become part of the vehicles character. The best way to have a nice interior is to swap to leather, or be totally anal about everything going on in your car.
The best way to clean cloth is just like carpet, use a steamer. The steam will not discolor the cloth and will allow for a deep penetration to remove even the most funky of dastardly funks. The down side to steaming cloth is that it saturates the material and substructure with moisture, which if left unattended can create mold and mildew. Once material is decomposed and destroyed by mold, there's no going back. Cleaning and steaming your seats is best done when removed from the vehicle, or if the car is sitting outside during a hot and windy day. If mother nature isn't cooperating, go ahead and stage the heat and sun by using a garage and strong fan. Blowing heat into the interior, this will surely get rid of the moisture. Lucky for us in Florida, we have ample amounts of heat and sun to bake the soggy cloth.
Summary
If you made it through that 5,000+ word essay about keeping a car so clean that God would drive it, congratulations you are now a car detailer. Not really, that takes time, practice, and ethics. You can't just read something and then "poof", call yourself a car detailer. Start practicing, but chances are that if you're here reading this you already care enough about your car that it's in pretty good shape. The following video is testimony that I know how to keep a car clean, and that the methods above do indeed work. This car is the same one that's pictured above! Hard to believe, right? This is how the car stands today after about 5,000 miles of rally through Florida's extreme forests. Sand, lime, dirt, clay; you name it - it's been caked on there. This car has been jumped, dumped, and everything between and yet it still shines like a gem thanks to my obsessive love of cleaning my vehicle. Get it dirty, clean it; that's my life.
If there is anything I missed in this write up, feel free to comment below and I'll do my best to provide a resolution.
Video content: My 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX walk around after 5,000 miles of rally
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